Ma apuc acum, in miez de noapte, sa va insirui concluziile mult-promise ale calatoriei mele din Sicilia. Am senzatia ca daca mai astept mult nu o sa mai gasesc nimic semnificativ de spus (oricum am iesit de ceva vreme din starea "vara-soare-mare" pe care mi-o daduse Italia).
Si pt ca vizita in Italia a avut un scop cat se poate de precis, prima observatie pe care o voi face este legata de activitatea anti-mafia pe care o duc diverse organizatii si institutii din Sicilia. M-a uimit enorm curajul de care dau dovada oamenii astia! Pt ca dincolo de toata imaginea usor 'idilica' pe care o portretizeaza filmele americane cu mafioti, lucrurile nu sunt deloc ata de simple precum par. Nu stiu exact care este situatia acum, cat de periculos este sa fi procuror acum fata de acum 20 de ani, spre exemplu (am vrut sa-l intreb asta pe procurorul pe care l-am intalnit, dar o sa aflati imediat de ce nu am mai reusit), insa dupa cum ni s-a prezentat realitatea atunci cand am vizitat sediul Telejato, vad ca lucrurile sunt inca destul de serioase. Si nu numai pt cei care au fost mereu pe partea asta a 'baricadei', ci si pt cei care au fost 'dincolo' si au decis sa intre in legalitate. Sigur, vreau sa cred ca nu mai exista cazuri precum cel din 1993, cand fiul de 13 ani al unui pentito (mafioti care rup codul tacerii - omerta - cand sunt arestati si colaboreaza cu organele legale, practic devin informatori), caci la aceasta categorie ma refer, a fost rapit si tunit captiv doi ani, pentru ca apoi sa fie omorat si corpul sau dizolvat in acid (cautati cazul Giuseppe di Matteo daca va intereseaza subiectul). Si ca tot suntem la capitolul pentiti, este curios cum primul 'colaboratul al justitiei' (asa cum sunt numiti oficial), a mers la Politie candva in anii '70 si a marturisit multe crime si a expus tot ceea ce inseamna Mafia, dar nu a fost luat in serios. In final, a ajuns sa fie internat intr-un azil de boli mintale (pt ca a dezvoltat o serie de comportamente ciudate, cu tenta de auto-multilare, ca forma de eliberare).
Revenind la cei care lupta impotriva mafiei, am toata admiratia pt acesti oameni, in special pt tinerii care iau atitudine! Problema asta mi se pare atat de complexa si nu mi-as putea imagina cum ar fi sa te nasti intr-o societate in care sa fii mafiot este o chestiune care impune respect (ma refer la Sicilia de pana acum 10-20 de ani), iar acest lucru sa se perpetueze peste generatii si sa iti dai seama la un moment dat ca schimbarea trebuie sa inceapa de la tine, cineva trebuie sa ia atitudine si daca nu esti tu acela s-ar putea ca nimeni sa nu faca nimic in continuare. Printr-o comparatie (putin fortata datorita contextului historico-economico-social), ma gandeam cum noi, romanii, am ajuns sa pierdem aceasta speranta de mai bine si nu mai avem nici un optimism care sa ne impinga sa pornim un demers pt schimbare (in cazul nostru coruptia este cea impotriva caruia ar trebui sa ne mobilizam). In schimb, tinerii romani (si ma auto-includ in aceasta categorie), resemnati, prefera sa plece afara, sa fuga de ceea ce de fapt este responsabilitatea noastra si sa lasam 'sarcina' asta pt altii. Nu vreau sa dezbat subiectul mai mult, nici nu stiu daca pana la urma e mai greu sa lupti impotriva coruptiei sau a mafiei (la un moment dat devine aceeasi lupta), asa ca doar o sa concluzionez ca ai lor sunt mai bravi decat ai nostri! Si inca ceva ce nu intalnesti in Romania - drapelul national la ferestre, in fata caselor, in curti. Sunt convinsa ca nu avea legatura cu participarea la Cupa Mondiala, caci la acel moment echipa lor fusese deja iesita din competitie.
Si daca tot vorbeam de italieni, trebuie sa recunosc ca nu inteleg de unde a rasarit ideea ca ei ar fi bine imbracati. Desigur, nu am fost in nordul Italiei, unde situatia economica este mai buna, deci lumea mai prospera, si sunt probabil si altfel 'educati' din punctul asta de vedere. Insa in Sicilia rareori am vazut persoane bine imbracate (in sensul clasic al cuvantului) si cu atat mai putin ceva care sa iasa din tipare. Mi se pare ca stilul lor se aseamana foarte mult cu cel al romanilor, 'hai-sa-punem-niste-haine-pe-noi', si asta mi se pare surpinzator, caci au acces la mai multe branduri si inca de mai mult timp decat avem noi. Plus ca Italia a fost mereu o tara cu o puternica industrie textila (uite ca sunt bune la ceva si cursurile de Ev Mediu pe care le-am facut la facultate). Insa lucrul asta chiar nu se reflecta pe strazi, fetele tinere se imbraca inca dupa moda anului 2007: skinny jeans cu talie foarte joasa, in combinatie cu maiouri/bluze foarte mulate deasupra buricului. Sincer, mi s-s parut ca barbatii se imbraca de multe ori mai bine. Incercand o alta comparatie, ma gandeam ca in Spania, o tara cu relativ aceeasi clima (caci si asta influenteaza moda strazii) si situatie economica, oamenii au un stil mult mai rafinat, incepan de la tineri si terminand cu pensionarii.
Continuand discutia despre haine, declar Italia tara fake-urilor! Sau cel putin tara vest-europeana a lucrurilor contrafacute. Si la noi exista 'Gucci', 'Armani', 'Channel' made in China, la fel si in Spania, cred ca si prin Anglia, dar le gasesti doar in anumite piete, nu la orice colt de strada. In putinul timp pe care l-am avut la dispozitie pt cumparaturi, am vazut ca sunt o groaza de tarabe numai cu marfuri contrafacute care imita marile branduri, dar, hey, partea buna e ca poti sa negociezi daca vrei neaparat o geanta care sa strige Louis Vuitton! Ah, si inca ceva: sa nu va asteptati la reduceri foarte spactaculoase, cel putin mie asa mi s-a parut. Din ce am vazut eu pana acum, nimic nu rivalizeaza cu Spania la capitolul asta.
Cum spuneam si in postarea anterioara, pot sa trec foarte usor drept italianca, asta pt ca in general noi romanii avem cam aceleasi trasaturi ca si italienii: in principal sateni/bruneti, pielea nu prea alba si aproximativ aceeasi constitutie corporala. Italiencele nu mi se par extraordinar de frumoase (chiar nu vorbeste invidia in mine, dar nu am vazut prea multe care sa ma 'dea pe spate'), insa tipii chiar arata bine, desi uneori parca sunt 'prea' bruneti, chiar si pt gusturile mele (nu credeam ca o sa ajung sa spun/scriu asta vreodata :D). Oricum, au intrat lejer in topul preferintelor mele, pe locul 4 (nu exista locul 5 :D), dupa suedezi, spanioli si germani :)
In rest, recunosc ca exceptand obiceiul de a pune ulei de masline pe paine (obicei pe care, de altfel, il au si spaniolii din sudul tarii), bucataria italiana mi se pare delicioasa! Evident, este bazata pe paste-orez-fructe de mare-pizza, dar mi-a placut mult faptul ca este perfect adaptata climei (in Romania, chiar si la 40 de grade, baza ramane tot carnea - 'cea mai buna leguma', in folclorul contemporan - de porc, sa fiu mai specifica). Am incercat diverse tipuri de preparate, in principal pasta (nu si carbonara, preferata mea, dar asta cu alta ocazie) si pot sa spun ca recomand pasta (tagliatelle) cu fructe de mare. Ceea ce din nou mi s-a parut de neinteles a fost faptul ca meniurile lor contin doua feluri de mancare, dar nici unul nu este supa (sau cel putin nu mai mult de 2-3 si nu peste tot), asa ca practic poti sa manaci la felul intai orez si la felul doi pasta, escalop sau mai stiu eu ce. Mi se pare foarte multa mancare pt o masa, dar bineinteles poti sa iti iei doar un singur fel.
Altfel, ceea ce nu am mentionat dar mi se pare important de precizat e faptul ca Sicilia este atat de contrastanta. Foarte multe cladiri sunt ceva mai vechi, fatadelor le lipseste tencuiala si am avut asa un sentiment de saracie acuta, nu stiu de ce. Poate pt ca pana si in Romania nu vezi cladiri de genul asta le gasesti doar in cartiere in care nu ai vrea sa te plimbi singur/a noaptea. Si cred ca de la aerul ala meditaranean, de vacanta (soare si mare, combinatia perfecta), de viata relaxata, spiritul latin, limba destul de apropiata de romana (cred ca daca as sta o luna acolo as ajunge sa vorbesc binisor italiana) am vazut Sicilia precum sora mai saraca a Spaniei. Relieful este fascinant: din oras vezi crestele pietroase ale muntilor si, totusi, intalnesti palmieri la orice pas. Trebuie sa recunosc, la inceput chiar nu am fost impresionata de insula tocmai datorita lucrurilor pe care tocmai le-am mentionat, dar dupa cateva zile chiar a inceput sa imi intre la suflet (sau 'it started to grow on me', cum ar zice englezu'). Sicilia e un loc special!
In alta ordine de idei, calatoria in Sicilia a fost ocazia perfecta de a imi cunoaste colegii si chiar am vazut ca sunt cat se poate de OK, chiar daca mi se parea mie ca englezii nu prea ies din 'zona lor de comfort'. Mi-am imbunatatit vocabularul cu ei, am vazut cam ce parere au ei despre diverse chestiunii (chiar si despre cum se percep englezii intre ei), am aflat de ce nu pot ei sa invete ei, in general, limbi straine si mi-am dat seama ca stau cam prost la capitolul organizare: de fiecare data cand voiam sa facem o poza de grup dura o groaza pana sa ne strangem cu totii, pt ca toata lumea vorbea cu toata lumea! La fel si dimineata, cand trebuia sa ne mobilizam sa plecam...
Apoi, cum am spus si data trecuta, am fost tare nemultumita de faptul ca mereu am fost pe fuga si ca lucrurile nu au fost prea in regula la organizare. Au fost multe situatii in care ceea ce urma sa facem depindea de noi (spre exemplu, cand trebuia sa alegem unde si ce vrem sa mancam) si Rino, profesorul italian, incerca sa ne faca pe plac si ne intreba mereu ce preferam. Numai ca banuiesc ca va imaginati ca e destul de dificil sa ajungi la un consens intr-un grup atat de mare, asa ca am fi preferat cu totii sa ia el initiativa si macar sa vina cu o propunere (caci in anumit context ne era indiferent ce se decidea, mai ales ca noi nu cunosteam locurile). Insa nu cu Rino am avut noi probleme, ci cu Jean Bernard (JB), cel de la departamentul de Programe Internationale, care a venit cu noi, chipurile, sa faciliteze noi legaturi. Insa el a fost mai mult in vacanta (caci oricum isi deconta orice cheltuieli) si, pe deasupra, a venit si cu 'temele nefacute'. Asa ca de foarte multe ori, profitand de faptul ca vorbeste italiana si ca majoritatea intalnirilor au avut loc in italiana (cu traducere), JB a pus monopol pe discutie si, mai mult chiar, a pus niste intrebari extrem de stupide. Spre exemplu, pe un procuror voia sa il intrebe care sunt ritualurile de a intra in mafie si chiar dupa ce ni se explicase ca in Italia datorita situatiei speciale (cu mafia) poti fi anchetat pt asociere de persoane (desi este contradictoriu Conventiei Europene a Drepturilor Omului), el s-a trezit sa intrebe de ce poti fi anchetat in Italia pt asociere! Incredibil! Am decis apoi sa vorbesc eu cu Rino in numele tuturor si sa ii spun ca suntem nemultumiti de ce se intampla si ca excursia este pt noi (evident, am fost Homo Diplomaticus). Rino isi daduse si el seama ca JB monopoliza toate discutiile si chiar nu s-a suparat ca am vorbit cu el. Si zau ca nimenit nu a fost deranjat de faptul ca Rino punea intrebari, caci macar ale lui erau pertinente si relevante. Iar pt JB cred ca ar fi fost cel mai usor sa isi satisfaca toate 'curiozitatile' cautand un pic pe internet sau, mai simplu chiar, uitandu-se la "Nasul". In fine, au fost mult mai multe lucruri/situatii in care cu siguranta ar fi trebuit sa dea dovada de mai mult profesionalism si decenta si care m-au facut sa imi schimb total parerea despre JB. Cred ca nimeni dintre cei care l-au cunoscut inainte de plecarea in Italia nu il mai vede cu aceeasi ochi acum...
Si ca sa nu inchei postarea intr-o nota negativa, iata ce se gaseste pe strazile din Palermo (costau 10€, daca imi amintesc eu bine):
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Let's Settle the Score...
It's almost midnight, but I really want to write the long-promised conclusions of my trip to Sicily (I don't want to delay it anymore because I am already out of the "summer-sun-sea" mood).
The whole visit had a certain scope, so the first observation which I'll make is be linked to anti-mafia activities of various organisations and institutions in Sicily. I was enormously surprised by courage shown by these people! Beyond the slightly 'idyllic' image portrayed by the American mafia movies, things are not simple as in reality. I do not know exactly what is the situation now, how dangerous it is to be a judge or prosecute now in comparison to 20 years ago, for example (I wanted to ask this question to the prosecutor we've met, but you'll find out later why I didn't), but the reality was presented to us when we visited the Telejato headquarters, I can see that things are still pretty serious. And not only for those who were always on this legl side of the 'barricade', but for those who were 'on the other side' and decided to go legally. Sure, I want to believe that there aren't cases like the one of 1993, when 13 year old son of a pentito (mobsters that break the code of silence - omerta - when they are arrested and start collaborating with the authorities, practically becoming informants), because it is this category I am referring to, was kidnapped and held captive for two years, then killed and his body was dissolved in acid (search for Giuseppe di Matteo case if you are interested in the subject). And if we're talking about penititi, is curious that the first "collaborator of justice" (as they are officially called), went to the police sometimes in the '70s and confessed many crimes and exposed all that Mafia means, but he was not taken seriously. Eventually he was hospitalised in a mental asylum (because he had developed a series of strange behaviours, with self-mutilating tint, as a form of release).
Returning to those who fight against the mafia, they have all my admiration, especially the young people who take action! This problem seems so complex and I could not imagine how it would be to be born into a society where being a mobster is a matter of respect (this was Sicily until 10-20 years ago) and this fact being perpetuated across generations and then you realise at some point that change must start from you, someone has to take action and if it's not you then nobody might do anything. By comparison (a bit forced, due to a different historical economical and social context), I was thinking about us, Romanians, and the fact that we've lost this hope of better and no longer have any optimism to make us start a change (in our case it is the corruption against which we should mobilise). Instead, young Romanians (and I include myself in this category), have resigned, preferring to go abroad, to get away from what actually is our responsibility and leave this 'burden' to others. I will not further discuss the subject, I do not even know if ultimately it is more difficult to fight corruption or mafia (at times is the same fight), so I only want to conclude that their people are more brave than ours! And something more that you won't see in Romania - national flags in windows, in front of the houses, in courtyards. I'm sure that was not related to Italy's participation in the World Cup, because at that time their team had been eliminated form the competition.
And speaking of Italians, I must admit that I do not understand how the idea they would be well dressed came up. Of course, I wasn't in northern Italy, where the economic situation is better, so it's more prosperous world, and the people are probably differently 'educated' in this point of view. But in Sicily I rarely saw well dressed people (in the classic sense of the word) and much less something edgy. I believe their style is very similar to that of the Romanians, 'let's-put-some-clothes-on-us', and it seems surprisingly, because they have access to even more brands and for a longer time than we do. Plus, Italy has always been a country with a strong textile industry. But this thing is just not reflected on the streets, where girls still dress after the 2007 fashion: skinny jeans with very low waist, paired with very short and clingy tops/blouses. Honestly, I thought that men often dress better. Making another comparison, I think that in Spain, a country with relatively the same climate (because this influences the street fashion as well) and economic situation, people have a more refined style, from young to old people.
Continuing to talk about clothes, I declare Italy the country of fakes! Or at least the Western European country of fake things. And we have 'Gucci', 'Armani', 'Channel' Made in China as well, as it is in Spain, and I think in England too, but you can only find these in certain markets, not at any street corner. In the little time that I have for shopping, I saw a lot of stalls merchandising only imitations of major brands, but, hey, the good part is that you can bargain if you want a bag that really cried Louis Vuitton! Oh, and another thing: don't expect spectacular sales it Italy or at least this is how I feel about this. From what I've seen so far, nothing rivals Spain at this chapter.As I said in previous posting, I can easily pass as Italian, because us the Romanians generally have about the same features as the Italians: mainly brown-haired/brunette people, having not a very pale skin and with about the same body constitution. The Italian women did not seem extraordinarily beautiful to me (I am not envious, but I really haven't seen too many outstanding ladies), but the guys look verrry good, although sometimes they seem to be 'too' dark-haired, even for my tastes (I never though I'd get to say/write this, never ever: D). Anyhow, they made it to my top, ranking no. 4 (there is no number 5 :D), after Swedish, Spanish and Germans :)
Otherwise, except for that habit of putting olive oil on bread (which is practised by Spaniards in the south as well), I find the Italian cuisine simply delicious ! Obviously, based on rice, pasta, seafood, pizza, but I liked that it is perfectly adapted to the climate (in Romania, even at 40 degrees Celsius, the meat - 'the best vegetable' in the contemporary folklore - remains the basis of meals, pork meat, to be more specific). I tried different dishes, mainly pasta (but not carbonara, although is my favourite, but that on another occasion) and I can say that I recommend pasta (tagliatelle) with seafood. Another thing that seemed incomprehensible to me was the fact that their menus contain two dishes, but none being the soup (or at least you don't have more than 2-3 to chose form and not in any place), so basically you can have rice for the first course and pasta or escalope or something else for the second course. It seems too much food for lunch, but of course you can chose you to take only one course.
What I haven't mentioned but I think it is important to note is the fact that Sicily is so contrasting. Many buildings are slightly older, the facades are lacking the plaster and I had such a feeling of acute poverty, do not know why. Perhaps because even in Romania you do not see buildings like that anywhere else but in neighbourhoods where do you want to walk alone at night. But I think that because the Mediterranean air, the holiday vibe (sun and sea, the perfect combination), the relaxed life, the Latin spirit, the language quite close to Romanian (I think that if I stay there one month I'd get to speak Italian well enough) I have seen Sicily as Spain's poorer sister. The landscape is fascinating: from the city you can see the rocky cliffs of the mountains, but also palm trees at every step. I must admit, at first I wasn't impressed by the island because of the things I've just mentioned, but after a few days it began to grow on me. Sicily is a special place!
On another note, the trip to Sicily was the perfect chance to get to know my colleagues and I saw they are OK, even if it seems to me that English people are a bit reluctant in getting out of their comfort zone. I improved my vocabulary with them, I saw what they think about different matters (even how they perceive each others, as English), I found out why they cannot learn foreign languages, in general, and I realised that they aren't too brilliant when it comes to organisation: every time we wanted to take one group photo it was taking us a LOT of time to get together, because everybody was chatting among the group! Same thing in the morning, when we were supposed to mobilise ourselves to get going ...Then, as I said last time, I was very frustrated that we were always on the run and things were not nicely organised. There were many situations when it was up to us to decide on certain issues (for example, to choose where and what to eat) and Rino, the Italian professor, was trying to please us and we were always asked about what we prefer. But I guess you can imagine it's difficult to reach a consensus in a large group, so I would have preferred Rino to take initiative and even come with a proposal (in certain contexts we weren't even bothered to decide, especially because we did not know the places).
But we had no problems with Rino, Jean Bernard (JB), from the International Programs department, was the issue. He came with us on the pretence of facilitating new connections, but he was more on a vacation (because anyway he claimed expenses) and, moreover, he came with his 'homework undone'. So many times, taking advantage of the fact that he speaks Italian and most meetings were held in Italian (with translation), JB has put a monopoly on the discussion and, indeed, he asked some very stupid questions. For example, he wanted to ask a prosecutor which are rituals to get into mafia and once after we have been explained that in Italy because of special circumstances (the Mafia) you can be prosecuted for association of persons (although it's contradictory to the European Convention of Human Rights), he asked why you can be investigated in Italy for association! Unbelievable! I decided then to talk Rino on the behalf of all and tell him that we are unhappy with what is happening and that trip is for our benefit (obviously I was Homo Diplomaticus in this circumstance). He has already figured it out that JB was putting a monopoly on the conversations and he wasn't angry that I approached him. And really none of us was bothered by the fact that Rino was asking questions, because at least his were pertinent and relevant. And as for JB, I think it would have been easier for him satisfy all his 'curiosities' by doing a little research on the Internet or better yet by watching "The Godfather". Finally, there were many other things/situations when he certainly ought to show more professionalism and decency and that made me totally change my opinion about JB. I think none of those who knew him before leaving for Italy it is now seeing him with the same eyes...
Because I don't want to end my post on a negative vibe, in the last photo you can see what is being sold on the streets of Palermo (it costs €10 if I remember well) :)
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