Am incercat sa scriu cate ceva despre calatoria in Italia chiar in timp ce eram acolo, dar lipsa de timp si de rabdare (sa fi scris de pe telefon era un efort prea mare) si-au spus cuvantul. Asa ca o sa imi pun memoria la incercare acum si o sa public o postare lunga, deci o sa va testez rabdarea (si mie, de asemenea). Iar daca o sa imi scape vreun detaliu, o sa revin apoi intr-o alta postare.
De fapt, nici acum nu prea stiu cum sa incep, dar stiu ca nu ar mai trebui sa aman postarea asta, caci apoi sigur voi uita multe amanunte. Luand-o cel mai simplu si sigur de la inceput, calatoria pana la aeroport (Luton) mi s-a parut destul de lunga, desi este mai aproape decat Stansted si am avut cu cine sa vorbesc pe toata durata drumului. In aeroport am mai avut ceva vreme de pierdut, caci am ajuns cu vreo 2 ore inainte, asa ca intalnit cu ceilalti (caci nu am plecat chiar cu totii din Coventry), am mancat, am facut check-in-ul si toate cele. La controlul de securitate, pt prima data in viata mea (sau in memoria mea), am bipai si chiar am fost pusa sa ma descalt, desi purtam niste sandale cat se poate de decupate si cu vedere la picior.
Cu toate ca am fost printre ultimii in coada de imbarcare, am reusit sa prindem locuri bune in avion, la iesirile de urgenta din mijloc. Banuiesc ca orice persoana cu experienta intr-ale zburatului stie ca astea-s locurile care iti ofera cel mai mult spatiu pentru picioare, intr-o aeronava normala. Eu am stat comfortabil langa geam, asa ca am dormit pe aproape toata durata zborului (ca mai toti, de altfel), trezindu-ma din cand in cand si admirand culmile Alpilor si, evident, la destinatie. La aterizare in Trapani (caci nu exista cursa spre Palermo) am fost neplacut surpinsa de caldura si mai ales de umiditatea ridicata (era aproximativ ora 22:30!). Eram imbracata in blugi si o camasa subtire, caci in Anglia credeam ca va fi mai frig la plecare si oricum ma bazam ca va fi in regula noaptea, la sosirea in Sicilia. Insa era groaznic, era atat de cald incat pielea transpira si devenea lipicioasa! Yuck!
Ne-am intalnit cu ghidul nostrul, de la Libera Terra, am luat bagajele si masina inchiriata (caci am avut la dispozitie o furgoneta de 7+1 locuri, iar noi eram 10, asa ca s-a mai inchiriat o Lancia pt deplasari) si am pornit catre Marsala, o localitate in apropiere de Trapani, unde am fost cazati la un hotel.
Cum era deja tarziu, cam miezul noptii, am iesit in oras sa mancam ceva si asa am mancat eu prima mea pizza italiana! Era cam uleioasa, ce-i drept, si aveam sa constat mai tarziu ca italienii folosesc extrem de mult uleiul de masline, inclusiv pe paine! Asta contravine cumva normelor mele de alimentatie normala, dar nu am comentat niciodata, ci am incercat sa apreciez cat mai mult bucataria locala. Ah, da, inca ceva: nu va asteptati vreodata in Italia ca pizza sa va fie servita feliata! Va trebui sa faceti asta singuri si va spun ca sigur o sa va chinuiti putin, caci blatul este foarte crocant, desi subtire.
A doua zi, vineri, dupa micul-dejun de la hotel, am plecat catre Palermo, cu escala la o salina undeva pe langa Trapani (nu imi amintesc exact numele, caci sunt multe saline in zona, stiu ca era o mica insula numita "Mozia" in apropiere) si apoi la o plaja, unde am petrecut cateva ceasuri. Pt ca, asa cum am spus in postul anterior, nu aveam rogojina si nici nu imi place sa stau pe prosop cand merg la plaja, am mers putin pe marginea plajei, in cautare de vanzatori ambulanti, de unde sa imi cumpar una. Am gasit niste standuri, am hotarat sa iau una care se pliaza, dar cum era putin rupta am vrut sa cer alta, insa aceea mi-a fost oferita gratis ("regalo"), asa ca nu am refuzat-o. Iata deci avantajul de a fi fata si de a vorbi spaniola, caci, da, de multe ori spaniola m-a ajutat sa ma inteleg cu localnicii, caci altfel rareori dadeai peste cineva care sa stie engleza la un nivel multumitor.
Mai tarziu aveam sa vad si dezavantajul de a primi ceva de gratis, cand eram plina de nisip la 5 secunde dupa ce m-am asezat pe rogojina...
Salina di Trapani
Inainte sa ajungem in Palermo ne-am mai oprit si la Casa Memoriala "Peppino Impastato", un sicilian care prin anii '70 a infiintat un radio anti-mafia, prin care denunta actiunile criminale ale Cosa Nostra (asta cu toate ca tatal si unchiul sau erau si ei mafioti, dar de "rang mai mic") si care a murit asasinat in 1977, daca nu ma insel. Initial, mafia locala a vrut ca moartea lui sa para accidentala si sa ii creeze o imagine falsa (de terorist), dar in final reputatia i-a fost reabilitata. Viata lui a fost foarte interesanta si sta la baza filmului "I cento pasi" ("100 de pasi"), pe care l-am vizionat la facultate acum cateva luni (nu stiu daca am mai mentionat asta pe blog), un film pe care vi-l recomand, chiar daca nu sunteti prea pasionati de subiect. Revenind la vizita, la Casa memoriala ne-am intalnit cu fratele mai mic a lui Peppino, Giovanni, care a stat putin de vorba cu noi si ne-a povestit cateva amanunte din viata fratelui sau.
Imaginea iconica a lui Peppino
Alaturi de Giovanni, fratele lui Peppino
Mai tarziu, in Palermo, am constatat ca traficul din Bucuresti este absolut in regula, in comparatie cu cel din Sicilia: din doua benzi, plus cea de urgenta, palermitanii au facut 4, si nici pe alea nu le mentin. Lumea conduce total haotic, fara sa semnalizeze, iar scuterele se baga peste tot (inteleg si de ce se foloseste mijlocul asta de transport). Iar daca esti pieton si incerci sa traversezi, chiar si pe zebra, eu zic sa te incumeti doar cand nu se vede nici o masina/nici un scuter la orizont, caci altfel slabe sunt sansele sa ajungi pe partea cealalta (intreg): foarte putini iti vor ceda trecerea, indiferent cat de mult vei astepta.
Apoi ne-am cazat la un hostel, "Casa Marconi", unde ne-am luat camerele in primire - am stat cate unul in camera (desi erau camere de pana la 4 paturi), cu toate ca nu ne-ar fi deranjat sa impartim incaperile. Eu am nimerit intr-o camera de 2 paturi (asa ca unul a fost folosit pe post de depozitare a lucrurilor rasturnate din genti, cand ma hotaram sa le schimb), din pacate in partea in care nu se prindea conexiunea wireless, decat cumva langa geam (trebuia sa stau cu bratul foarte intins), asa ca de multe ori stateam pe scari si scriam mailuri sau vorbeam pe Skype (da, am si asa ceva pe telefon). Cel mai misto a fost ca desi eram practic cazati intr-un hostel, aveam serviciu de curatenie in fiecare zi, plus aer conditionat (bine, cred ca nu poti supravietui fara asa ceva vara in Sicilia).
A treia zi, sambata, am mers la sediul unei asociatii numite "Addiopizzo", care combate plata pizzo-ului (taxa de protectie) de catre comerciantii palermitani (ctre mafioti, evident). Organizatia a fost fondata in 2004 prin initiativa unor prietenii (printre care si Daniele Marannano, cel cu care ne-am intalnit) care voiau sa isi deschida un bar si, printre alte cheltuieli, si-au dat seama ca vor trebui sa plateasca si pizzo-ul. Asa ca au decis sa ia atitudine si intr-o noapte au impanzit orasul cu stickere pe care scria ''Orice popor care alege să plătească pizzo, e un popor fără demnitate''. Ideea e ca practic, cumparand de la un comerciant care inca plateste taxa se contribuie la sprijinirea mafiei. In prezent sunt peste 400 de afaceri (din diferite domenii) aflate in circuitul "pizzo-free" (care nu platesc taxa). Cum puteti observa pe blogul meu, exista un mic banner (cu un link ce va va duce pe site-ul organizatiei) in coltul dreapta sus, asa ca de acum sustin si eu campania Addiopizzo!
In stanga este primul sticker pe care l-au folosit, cu care au impanzit strazile din Palermo intr-o noapte.
Dupa pranzul pe care l-am luat in oras am mers la Centrul Sicilian de Documentare "Giuseppe Impastato" (da, acelasi Peppino), unde ne-am intalnit cu Umberto Santino, care ne-a vorbit despre istoria si evolutia mafiei (ce-i drept, eram la curent cu lucrurile astea, dar apreciez efortul) si globalizarea crimei organizate & trenduri actuale. M-am bucurat de asemenea sa vad ca un om la peste 50 de ani vorbeste engleza suficient de bine incat sa sustina cel putin o prezentare si o conversatie, caci abilitatile de a vorbi limbi straine sunt cam absente in Italia (cel putin in Sicilia), iar comunicarea poate fi o problema. Insa nu vreau sa comentez prea mult, sunt alte circumstate, noi suntem, ironic, un caz fericit din punctul asta de vedere tocmai pentru ca ne aflam intr-o situatie mai proasta. In fine, Centrul se afla intr-o vila veche, iar usa de la intrarea in sediu (un apartament) era masiva, iar noi ne-am gandit si am facut scenarii ca este o consecinta a activitatii duse, dar apoi am aflat ca de fapt asa sunt usile tuturor apartamentelor din vila. Amuzant, nu? :)
Ne-am intors la hostel cu "metroul", pe care l-am luat dintr-un fel de statie de tren. Cand a sosit metroul propriu zis am crezut ca ne suim intr-un tren al groazei, parea foarte sinistru - compus din doua vagoane micute, aratand precum cele foarte vechi din Romania (cele albastre). Imi pare rau ca nu am facut poze, dar cred ca v-ati oripilat si voi. Si asta nu e tot, imaginea a fost si mai sinistra la destinatie, cand deja eram intr-o statie normala de metrou, dar absolut PUSTIE, in care nu as vrea sa ma aflu singura nici macar in timpul zilei. Asa ca marimea trenului si lispa oamenilor din el ma fac sa intuiesc ca sistemul de metrou nu este prea complex, si nici folosit (cred ca palermitani se bazeaza in principal pe transportul de suprafata).
In schimb am mai reusit sa facem niste poze prin oras...
Duminica, a patra zi, am avut-o libera, asa ca practic a fost program de voie. Unii s-au hotarat sa ramana in Palermo si sa viziteze orasul, iar altii sa mearga la plaja intr-un orasel numit Cefalu. Ghici ce am facut eu? Am mers la plaja, normal :D Si pentru ca eram 6 persoane care voiau sa mearga la plaja, Rino, proful italian de la modulul de Crima Organizata, Jean-Bernard (sau JB), directorul de la departamentul de programe europene si internationale (Erasmus, Leonardo etc), caci a venit si el cu noi, si 4 studenti, am decis ca noi, tineretul, sa luam trenul si sa mearga "profii" cu masina. Nici ca am luat o hotarare mai buna; am platit 10€ pt biletele de tren (dus-intors) si in cam o ora eram acolo, calatorind in conditii foarte bune (aer conditionat si punctualitate). Iar ei au facut cam 3 ore, din cauza traficului infernal (se pare ca multi palermitani pleaca in week-end in astfel de orasele/statiuni), plus ca nu si-au permis sa tina non-stop aerul conditionat deschis.
Am pierdut si noi ceva vreme cautand un loc pe plaja, era groaznic de aglomerat, apoi ne-am balacit in mare, timp in care au ajuns si cei doi in Cefalu, iar mai tarziu am luat pranzul (paste cu fructe de mare, delicios!). Trebuie sa recunosc ca Mediterana imi place mult mai mult decat Marea noastra Neagra, apa este, evident, mai curata, mai limpede (iti vezi pana si degetele de la picioare) si mai calda, insa mult-mult mai sarata! Nu m-am aventurat nici o secunda sa deschid ochii sub apa, caci numai cand imi intra putina apa in ochi ma usturau destul de tare. Insa nu fac prea multe mofturi, mi-ar placea sa inot zilnic intr-o astfel de mare...
Iata in ce conditii vitrege au calatorit colegii mei! Glumesc, am reusit cu totii sa stam cat se poate de comfortabil, chiar daca trenul a devenit mai aglomerat cu fiecare statie. Insa se pare ca nu toti si-au dat seama ca EXISTA aer conditionat in tren, asa ca au hotarat sa deschida geamul si sa lase tot aerul cald sa intre (am impresia ca un indian care cara tablouri l-a deschis). Nu puteam evident sa spun nimic, caci poate nu toti apreciaza cand le vorbesti in spaniola...
Nu am mentionat pana acum, dar in Sicilia (cel putin) este o cultura a "strazii", sa-i spunem asa, foarte ciudata: femeile sunt scanate din cap pana in picioare de catre barbati cu absolut orice ocazie!!! Si cand spun barbati ma refer la persoane de sex masculin la orice varsta si cam din orice categorie sociala...In fiecare zi mi-am auzit cel putin cate un "bella" si multiple fluieraturi. Daca imi amintesc eu bine, in Romania asta nu se intampla chiar in orice cartier si parca batranii sunt mai decenti (nah, nu orice pensionar striga dupa tine pe strada). Si cine stie ce alte chestii au mai spus italienii si eu nu am inteles...Asta ca sa nu mai zic ca oricum esti scanat si de batranele si copii (ce sa mai, de toata lumea) cand te vad ca esti strain sau te aud vorbind engleza! Pur si simplu se holbeaza la tine, iar tactica pe care o poti aplica in Anglia cand ti se intampla asta (de a te uita urat inapoi, eventual si a spune un "ce?" obraznic), nu functioneaza absolut deloc. Nah, eu pot parea (si sigur par) cat-de-cat italianca (mi s-a intamplat ca lumea sa imi vorbeasca direct in italiana, de exemplu la toaleta restaurantelor), dar cred ca englezii m-au dat de gol :)
V-am vorbit de lucrul asta pt ca in cefalu, cand am mers cu o colega sa luam niste apa pt a o avea pe tren, doi tipi (dintre care unul nu parea catusi de putin heterosexual) ne-au facut direct poza cand treceam pe langa ei, iar apoi la posterioare, cand eram in fata lor!!! Iar blitzul a fost insotit de exclamatiile de rigoare...Nah, e flatant sa auzi din cand in cand complimente, dar nu ORICAND si nu de la ORICINE. Nu cred ca as putea trai astfel, sa fiu privita, ca femeie, doar din prisma aspectului fizic. Noroc ca intotdeauna pe strada am avut ochelarii de soare (chiar nu se putea fara) ce imi sunt un pic cam largi si aluneca, deci trebuia sa ii ridic, folosind un deget...cel mijlociu :)
Inapoi in Palermo, am facut un dus si am iesit sa cautam un local unde sa vedem Finala din Cupa Mondiala si va spun ca nu a fost lucru usor, caci nu era mare interes prin oras pt partida asta, abia am reusit sa gasim o terasa cu un televizor (asta dupa ce am intrebat, in spaniola, pe un vanzator de pepene, care ne-a oferit loc langa taraba lui, la un TV cu un ecran nu mai mare decat laptopul meu). Am sustinut Spania, in cazul in care cineva s-a intrebat, caci asa am "planuit" de la inceput...Insa as fi fost mult mai 'pregatita' daca Germania ar fi trecut de semi-finala, caci mi-as fi luat tricoul "I love Berlin" si o ghirlanda gen hawaiana, dar in culorile steagului Germaniei, pe care mi-am cumparat-o din Berlin. Insa nu a fost sa fie...Data viitoare!
In a cincea zi, luni, aveam planificata o vizita la tribunal si intalniri cu niste magistrati & procurori asa ca eu, cel putin, m-am imbracat frumos. Am asistat la un proces impotriva unui tip cercetat pt trafic de masini, daca tin bine minte, caci abia a doua zi urma sa se faca arestarea a unui grup de 17 persoane ce fac parte dintr-o retea internationala de trafic de droguri. Am fost primiti si de un procuror care a colaborat cu celebrul Falcone (chiar in biroul in care lucrat si el pt o perioada), apoi am discutat cu magistratul Geri Ferrara despre o problema foarte grava in Palermo si in Neapole, si anume criza gunoaielor (in care mafia este, evident, implicata). Intr-adevar, Palermo si Sicilia, in general, chiar este la un moment dat sufocata de gunoaie, iar unele strazi miros ingrozitor, in special in zilele astea toride de vara.
Palatul de Justitie din Palermo este 'flancat', in partea frontala, de un gard anti-glont inalt de vreo 2 metri. Nu cred ca mai intalnesti asa ceva in alte parti, dar circumstantele sunt de inteles.
Intre Palatul de Justitie si Tribunal
Pe acoperisul Tribunalului. Nu am vrut sa scot limba la camera, doar s-a intamplat:)
Impreuna cu magistratul mai-sus mentionat.
Tot in aceeasi zi, dupa-amiaza, am fost la o intalnire a unei alte organizatii aflata pe frontul anti-mafia, Libera Terra, care practic foloseste pamanturile confiscate de la familiile mafiote si produce vin, ulei de masline, paste etc, cumva in sistem de cooperativa. Au chiar un magazin in incinta sediului, de unde mi-am luat o geanta de panza (pe care o port acum in exlusivitate) si ciocolata picanta :) As fi vrut sa iau vin, dar singura nu mi-ar fi placut sa beau si era prea complicat sa il iau cu mine in Anglia ca apoi sa il trimit in Romania. Activitatea lor este onorabila, dar nu prea am fost noi multumiti de prezentarea care ni s-a oferit, de raspunsuri si de maniera in care abordeaza anumite chestiuni. Initial, unii dintre colegii mei, inclusiv Mihai, trebuiau sa faca practica acolo, tot prin programul Leonardo, dar asociatia s-a razgandit si iata ca e mai bine asa...
Nu am poze de la aceasta intalnire (din nou am ramas fara baterii la camera), dar printre picaturi am reusit sa vizitez Catedrala din Palermo in acea zi...
In drum spre Catedrala am trecut pe langa Opera si alte cladiri minunate....
...si multe detalii interesante.
Catedrala este cumva simplista in interior...
...dar exteriorul este deosebit.
Marti, a sasea zi, a fost una extrem de lunga. Am plecat de dimineata (de fapt in fiecare zi ne-am trezit foarte devreme) spre Corleone, unde am vizitat Centrul International de Documentare despre Mafia si Antimafia. Si cine altcineva, in afara de mine, ar putea uita camera in hostel exact la o astfel de vizita? Bine ca au fost unii oameni destepti si au inventat "telefoanele inteligente: (iar eu am fost si mai desteapta si mi-am luat unul cu o camera buna). Oricum, nu a fost mare lucru, totul se bazeaza mai mult pe fotografiile expuse (facute de Letizia Battaglia, o faimoasa fotografa italiana specializata pe tema asta) si pe explicatiile primite de la ghid (care pt noi nu au fost o noutate). Din pacate, nu am petrecut mai mult timp in Corleone, caci in principal toata vizita asta in Sicilia a fost constant pe fuga. Mi-ar fi placut, de exemplu, sa vedem mai multe proprietati care au apartinut mafiotilor si pur si simplu sa ne plimbam prin oras, caci sincer, nu poti sa iti dai seama de dimensiunea fenomenului, nu poti sa realizezi ce inseamna sa traiesti intr-un tinut controlat de mafie pana cand nu ajungi acolo.
Biblioteca Centrului de care vorbeam.
Un bar celebrul datorita filmului "Nasul". Se numeste marketing, in general.
In fine, macar am reusit sa imi iau niste suveniruri pana sa plecam spre a vizita o crama care a fost construita pe un teren confiscat de la mafioti, iar apoi ne-am indreptat spre "Portella della Ginestra", la Cooperativa Placido Rizzotto, unde am luat pranzul, gustand exclusive produse din circuitul Libera Terra (paste, vin, paine, inghetata etc.). Locul in sine a apartinut, de asemenea, unei familii de mafioti si asta nu ma mira, caci locatia este excelenta (cumva ascunsa ochiului public), iesind de pe un drum adiacent, intr-o zona pustie si deci linistita. Din nou, iar am fost pe fuga (pur si simplu am terminat masa si a trebuit sa ne ridicam si sa plecam), ceea ce m-a enervat la culme, din mai multe motive: nu poti sa te urci direct in masina, dupa ce ai mancat, pe o caldura infernala si sa mergi pe serpentine cu 70km/ora (Gabriele, ghidul nostru, conduce foarte repede, iar drumurile sunt foarte serpuite in Sicilia, chiar daca nu era nevoie sa le construiasca asa, ci au fost proiectate astfel din cauza mafiei); iar apoi pe tot parcursul sederii noastre, nu ni s-a comunicat deloc in avans ceea ce urma sa facem exact in fiecare zi (ni s-a dat un program, ce-i drept, dar in italiana, si fara prea multe ore stabilite), asa ca mereu am fost pusi in fata situatiei ca "in 5 minute trebuie sa plecam". Dar am scris despre asta in feed-backul pe care ni l-au cerut acolo si voi mai scrie din nou cand v-a trebui sa facem un raport si pt facultate.
La crama din circuitul Libera Terra.
In locul in care am mancat, Portella della Ginestra.
Peisaj tipic sicilian.
Partea cea mai buna a zilei insa abia urma: am fost apoi intr-un orasel numit Partinico, unde am vizitat sediul unei televiziuni locale anti-mafia, Telejato, care condamna in mod direct actiunile Cosa Nostra, facand nominalizari (cum ar spune englezii, 'name & shame'). Initial nu ne-am dat noi seama ce ne asteapta (oricum tot ce s-a intamplat a fost destul de spontan), ne-am trezit intr-un apartament de trei camere (si o baie, foarte importanta pt activitatea televiziunii, veti vedea), unde cativa tineri de varsta noastra practic tin in viata televiziunea, sub indrumarea lui Pino Maniaci (un nume predestinat, as spune), un omulet simpatic si uscativ (probabil din cauza celor 3 pachete de tigari fumate pe zi), la vreo 50 si ceva de ani. I-am prins chiar in momentul in care emiteau in direct (iar asta se intampla doar cate 2 ore/zi), am stat putin de vorba cu Pino, avand drept traducator pe una din fetele de acolo (careia ii era la un moment dat rusine sa traduca unele cuvinte gen "va fan culo" sau "cazzo"; eu oricum le-am inteles).
Omuletul asta este un personaj, facea misto de multe chestii negative care i s-au intamplat datorita activitatii sale, glumind chiar ca atunci cand li se face frica, se duc la baie (acum ati aflat care e treaba cu baia). La un moment dat Pino s-a gandit ca ar fi o idee buna sa inregistram noi ceva si anume sa citim unele stiri in italiana. Pt ca tocmai aflasem ca el a fost amenintat si chiar batut (moment in care a vrut sa renunte, dar fata lui cea mica, si ea parte din echipa, l-a indemnat sa mearga mai departe), masina televiziunii a fost incendiata si inclusiv s-a tras inspre ei, am acceptat, in gluma, doar daca inregistrarea va fi difuzata dupa ce plecam din Sicilia :) Insa am luat lucrurile in serios, iar eu am fost prima care am trecut la pupitrul stirilor (caci Pino a recunoscut mai tarziu ca avea o slabiciune pt mine, probabil pt ca par un pic de a lor si poate pt ca paream interesata, caci intelegeam ce spunea) si am prezentat ceva despre o masina aruncata in aer. A urmat apoi o caterinca generala, caci aproape toti am citit cate o stire, si chiar daca restul nu intelegeau italiana (sau poate mai ales de asta), Pino nu s-a ferit sa faca misto - pe un coleg numit Rob l-a intitulat "Robin Hood din Anglia", pe o alta colega a intrebat-o daca ii place marijuana, iar ea, afland traducerea de la Rino, a raspuns, tot la misto, afirmativ. Restul e istorie! Din pacate, inregistrarea a fost transmisa a doua zi, cand noi nu aveam acces la televizor si nici nu reusesc sa vad difuzari pe site-ul televiziunii, dar cumva sigur tot voi reusi sa intru in posesia filmarii.
Cand am iesit din cladire ne-am uitat in stanga si-n dreapta, pt ca stiam ca zona este plina de mafioti, si nu voiam sa fim vazuti parasind sediul (caci toata lumea stie de televiziune acolo). Am baut o granita cu Pino, apoi am avut 10 minute la dispozitie sa aruncam o privire prin magazine (intr-un timp asa de scurt nu am putut sa gasesc nimic interesant), caci trebuia apoi sa ne intoarcem in Palermo si sa punem punct acelei zile incredibil de lungi.
In redactia Telejato.
Pe o strada din Partinico + un peisaj surprins din masina, la intoarcerea spre Palermo.
In a saptea zi, joi, se preconiza cumva o zi mai linistita, dar din nou ne-am trezit devreme ca sa ajungem la "riserva dello Zingaro" ("reserva Tiganilor"), o plaja aflata cam la o ora si jumatate de Palermo, in fapt o reservatie naturala, dupa cum ii spune si numele. Locul este superb, desi trebuie sa depui putin efort ca sa ajungi acolo, caci lasi masina intr-o parcare iar apoi (dupa ce platesti bilet), mergi vreo 20 de minute pe o coasta pentru a gasi o plaja izolata (dar nu pustie), fara urma de nisip, ci doar pietricele. Apa a fost din nou foarte limpede, cumva la vreo 50 de metri de mal erau si niste pietre masive pe care puteai sta. Desi eu sunt orice numai nu o mare inotatoare, am reusit, cu ajutorul fetelor, sa inot pana la intrarea intr-o grota, unde apa era rece si intunecata (nu stiu daca era din cauza lipsei de lumina sau chiar era adanca), asa ca ne-am intors pe piatra cea mare din larg, piatra pe care am botezat-o "Rocky England" ("Anglia Stancoasa") si am inceput sa facem control de pasaport celor care veneau acolo. Eu m-am auto-delegat Ministru de Externe ("Foreign Minister"), pt ca sunt straina ("foreigner").
Nu ne-am dat seama cand a trecut o ora balacindu-ne in apa, cert este ca nu am avut prea mult timp la dispozitie sa ne uscam si sa stam la plaja, caci iar am auzit "in 10 minute plecam". Dar am negociat si am reusit sa ramanem mai mult timp, nu prea mult insa, caci ni se facuse foame si zona este efectiv pustie. Singurul loc de unde iti poti cumpara ceva de mancat si de baut (fara a avea o oferta prea mare, totusi) era in parcare, aflata la 20 de minute distanta. Dupa ce timpul "ne-a expirat", am mers intr-un satuc, unde in sfarsit am mancat ceva, iar apoi ne-am intors in Palermo.
Reveniti in oras, am avut de ales intre a ramane la hostel si a ne pregati rapid pt a iesi la o plimbare si o scurta sesiune de cumparaturi (caci in rest, sincer, nu am avut timp sa achizitionam mai nimic din Palermo, nici macar suveniruri). Eu am ales, evident, varianta a doua! Si astfel m-am ales cu o rochita alba, cumparata de la un magazin de indieni (nu aveti idee cati pot fi si in Italia). Mai voiam si un tricou "I love Sicilia", pt colectie, dar nu a fost chip sa gasesc, intr-un timp asa de scurt.
In seara respectiva era sarbatoarea Sfantei Rosalia (patroana Palermoului), asa ca ne-am intors la hostel, am luat cina, i-am imbatat pe cam toti cu palinca (am avut grija sa iau cu mine o sticla, normal) si apoi am pornit in oras sa vedem festivitatile. Se sparsese conducta cu oameni in Palermo in seara aia! Fiind o tara foarte religioasa, toata lumea era in strada, sa asiste la procesiune, care incepe de undeva de la Catedrala si am inteles ca se termina undeva pe plaja, printr-un foc de artificii. Noi am prins "alaiul" exact intr-un loc central, unde era si o fanfara, apoi din nou aproape de plaja. Am vazut si o parte din focul de artificii, care zau ca depasea nr. de decibeli admisibili, dar la un moment dat ne-am plictist si am plecat spre hostel (iar focul nu se terminase; s-a incheiat abia dupa vreo jumatate de ora). Cu toate ca eram destul de obositi, ne-am oprit sa bem ceva, non-alcoolic, caci era incredibil de cald (desi mie cu siguranta imi trecuse efectul palincii).
In aceeasi seara am descoperit ca Nicolae Balcescu a murit in exil, la Palermo.
Cum ziua urmatoare, a opta, era si ultima, ar fi trebuit teoretic sa ne facem bagajele, dar nu m-am preocupat de asta in seara respectiva, caci, surprinzator, a fost singura zi in care ne-am permis sa dormim mai mult. Trebuia sa eliberam camerele pana la ora 11:00, asa ca am avut somn de voie pana la 09:00, apoi am coborat la micul dejun, iar bagajele nu au necesitat mai mult de 40 de minute pt a fi facute (intotdeauna e mai usor la plecare, chiar daca eu imi pun mereu hainele in sifonierul din camera in care sunt cazata).Apoi am plecat spre aeroportul din Trapani, dar nu inainte de a ne opri intr-un orasel, al carui nume nici nu m-am obosit sa il retin, sub pretextul de a manca. Nu inteleg de ce am facut escala asta, daca IAR am fost pe fuga. Zau, nimic nu ma enerveaza mai tare decat sa trebuiasca sa mananc pe fuga, ca apoi sa sar in masina. Si nu mi-am luat cine stie ce preparat sofisticat, ci un sandwich si o cutie de limonada, pe care a trebuit sa le termin in masina!!! Mai bine mergeam direct in aeroport si mancam acolo ceva, desi oferta nu ar fi fost prea variata, dar macar ne-am fi hranit in tihna.
Cireasa de pe tort: la aeroport o betoniera a intrat pur si simplu in cladire!!! Si a mers vreo 10-15 metri...Credeam ca lucruri de genul asta se intampla doar in Romania, intr-un loc numit "Caracal"...Dar, nah, lumea e mica!
Nu prea le au sicilienii cu securitatea la aeroport: eu am trecut fara sa imi scot cureaua de la pantaloni (si va amintiti ce s-a intamplat in Londra datorita nasturilor metalici pe care ii aveam la blugi), iar o alta colega (care, culmea!, isi face dizertatia pe tema securitatii in aeroport), a bipait la controlul de securitate, insa nimeni nu s-a obosit sa o verifice apoi. Zborul a fost in regula, dar aterizarea a fost cea mai nasoala din viata mea, dar am avut grija ca pilotul sa afle asta, caci am repetat asta de 2 ori cand am coborat pe usa din fata a aeronavei. Iar daca in Sicilia muream de cald in pantaloni scurti si o bluza subtire, in Anglia am inghetat instant si nici nu am avut timp sa imi scot blugii, caci am incercat (si reusit) sa luam un autocar mai devreme spre Coventry, ca sa nu trebuiasca sa asteptam vreo 3 ore prin aeroport. In Coventry incepuse sa ploua marunt cand am ajuns si noroc ca m-a dus acasa o colega, nu am mai dat bani pe taxi si nici nu am mai asteptat autobuzul. Acasa am stat de vorba cu Nicoleta, care mai ca nu voia sa ma primeasca pt ce eram prea bronzata (sic!), m mancat o ciorbita facuta de ea si apoi am urcat in camera sa imi duc bagajul. Evident ca dupa ce m-am intins "doar putin" in pat am avut nevoie doar de cateva secunde ca sa adorm, imbracata cum eram. M-am trezit pe la 03:00, m-am schimbat si demachiat si m-am bagat inapoi in pat.
Voi reveni in curand si cu niste concluzii (diverse) ale calatoriei, caci acum vreau sa inchei (temporar) epopeea siciliana (caci oricum mi-a luat o vesnicie sa o scriu).
Ciao!
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La Dolce Vita!
I tried to write something on the blog during my trip to Sicily, but I lacked the time and patience (it's too much of an effort to write from my phone). So this entry is going to be very long, testing my memory and your patiece.
In fact, I still do not really know how to start, but I shall just take it from the beginning> The journey to the airport (Luton) seemed quite long, although it's closer than Stansted and I had someone to talk throughout the entire road. At the airport we had pleanty of time to spare, because we got there about 2 hours earlier, so we've met with the others (because we all went to the airport by different means), we ate, we checked-in the luggage and all. At the security check, for the first time in my life (or my memory), I beeped so I had to take off my shoes, although I was wearing sandals.
Although we were among the last one at the boarding queue, we managed to catch the best seats on the plane, at the emergency exits in the middle. I guess anyone with experience in flying knows that those are great places, it offers plenty of space for your legs, even in a normal aircraft. I sat comfortably next to the window, so I slept almost the whole duration of the flight (as everyone, in fact), waking up from time to time and admiring the peaks of the Alps. Upon landing in Trapani (because there is no flight to Palermo) I was unpleasantly surprised by the heat and especially the high humidity (and it was about 10:30 p.m. time!). I was wearing in jeans and a thin shirt, because in England I thought it was slightly cooler and I though it would be the same at our destination. But it was awful, it was so hot that the skin was sweating and becoming sticky! Yuck!
We met our guide, from Libera Terra, got our luggage and the rented car (because we had a van of 7+1 places, and we were 10, so we rented a Lancia for travelling purposes) and left for Marsala, a town near Trapani, where we checked-in a hotel.
As it was already late, about midnight,we went out to eat something and so I had my first real Italian pizza! It was pretty oily, it is true, and I was to find out later that the Italians use olive oil very much, including on bread! This contravenes the rules of my normal diet, but I never commented, just I tried to appreciate as much as possible the local cuisine. Ah yes, another thing: don't you ever expect in Italy to be served sliced pizza! You will have to do this by yourselves and will certainly say that is a bit of a torture, because the crust is very crisp, although thin.
The next day, Friday, after breakfast at the hotel, we went to Palermo, with a stopover somewhere at a saline (do not remember the exact name, because there are many in the area, but I know that there was a small island called Mozia "nearby) and then to a beach, where we spent several hours. Like I said in previous post, I had no mat and I don't like to sit on the towel when going to the beach, I walked a little on the beach, looking for vendors, where do I buy one. I found some stands, I decided to take one that folds, but was a little torn so I wanted to ask for another one, but then I was offered that one free of charge ("regalo"), so I took it. So there you have the advantage of being a lady and speaking Spanish, because, yes, often Spanish helped me communicate with the locals, because otherwise seldom you'd run into someone who speaks good English or at least at a satisfactory level.
Later I was to see the disadvantage of receiving something for free when I was full of sand just five seconds after I sat on the mat ...
Before we arrived in Palermo we stopped and the Memorial House of Peppino Impastato, a Sicilian who founded, in the '70s, an anti-mafia radio, denouncing the actions of the Cosa Nostra (although his father and uncle were also mobsters, but form a "lower class") and who died assassinated in 1977, if I remember correctly. Originally, the local mafia wanted his death to look accidental and create him a false image (of a terrorists), but in the end his reputation was rehabilitated. His life was very interesting and made the basis for the film "I Cento Pasi" ("100 Steps"), which I watched in college a few months ago (do not know if I mentioned this on the blog), a film which I highly recommend, even if you are not too keen on the subject. During the visit at the memorial house we've met Peppino's younger brother, Giovanni, who stayed for a chat with us and told us a few details of his brother's life.
Later, in Palermo, I came to see that the traffic in Bucharest is absolutely sane, compared with that of Sicily: there two bands plus the hard shoulder, but the drivers of Palermo transformed the road into a 4-lane one. Total chaotic diving, almost no one indicates when changing lanes or directions and scooters are everywhere (and I understand why they are used as means of transportation). And if you're a pedestrian trying to cross, even on the zebra, I'd say you should only do this when you do not see any car/scooter on the horizon, because otherwise there are poor chances to reach the other side (one piece): very few drivers will give you passage, no matter how much you'd wait.
Then we checked into a hostel, "Marconi House", where we each got a key of a room (there were rooms up to four beds), although we would not have minded to share rooms. I got a room for two beds (so one was used as storage of stuff falling from my bags when I decided to change them), unfortunately on the side of the hostel where the wireless signal is very poor and I only managed to get internet somehow near the window so I often sat on the stairs and writing emails or talking on Skype (yes, I have that on my phone). The coolest this was that although it was basically a hostel, we had daily cleaning service and air conditioning (well, I guess you cannot survive without something like in Sicily during the summer).
On the third day, on Saturday, we went to the headquarters of an association called "Addiopizzo" that combats payment of the pizzo ( the extortion money) by businesses of Palermo (to the mafia, obviously). The organization was founded in 2004 at initiative of a group of friends (among them Daniel Marannano, whom we met with) that wanted to open a bar, and realized that among other expenses they'd have to pay the pizzo as well. So they decided to take attitude and one night they've studded the city with stickers which said "A whole people who pays the pizzo is a people without dignity.'' The idea is that practically buying from a dealer who pays the tax is a for of contribution/support to the mafia. Currently over 400 businesses (from different domains) are in the "Pizzo-free" circuit (don't pay the tax). As you can see on my blog there is a small banner (with a link that will take you straight to the site of the organization) in the upper right corner, so now I'm supporting the campaign and Addiopizzo myself!
After lunch that we had downSicilian Center of Documentation "Giuseppe Impastato" (yes, the same Peppino), where we've met with Umberto Santino, who spoke to us about the history and evolution of Mafia (well, we were already aware of these things, but I appreciate the effort) and the globalization of organized crime & current trends. I also enjoyed seeing a man in his late 50s speaking English well enough to hold a presentation and conversation, because the ability of speaking foreign languages is pretty much absent in Italy (at least in Sicily) and communication can be an issue. But I do not want to comment on this too much, there are other circumstances, we (the Romanians) are, ironically, in a better position from this point of view precisely because we are in a worse situation. Finally, the Centre is in an old villa and the entrance door (in the apartment) was massive and we've thought about it and made scenarios - it must be a consequence of the activity pursued -, but then we found out that actually it's the same type of doors for all apartments in the villa. Funny, huh? :)
We got back to the hostel with "The Tube", which we took from a train station. When it arrived I thought it's in fact a train of terror, seemed very sinister - consists of two tiny compartments, looking like the very old trains in Romania. Sorry, I have no photos, but I think I was too horrified for that. And that's not all, the image got more sinister at destination, when we were already in a typical subway station, but absolutely deserted, that kind of station where I wouldn't want to be alone even in daytime. So the size of the train and the lack of people makes me assume that the subway system is not too complex, nor used (I think the citizens rely mainly on surface transportation).
On Sunday, the fourth day, we had a free day, so it was practically a loosen program. Some have decided to stay in Palermo and visit the city, while others to go to the beach in a town called Cefalu. Guess what I did? I went to the beach, obviously: D And since we were six people who wanted to go to the beach, Rino, the Italian professor lecturing the module of Organized Crime, Jean-Bernard (or JB), the Director of the Department of European and international programs ( Erasmus, Leonardo etc.), who came with usin this trip, and four students, we decided that us, the youngster, would take the train and the 'grown-ups' would go by car. There couldn't have been a better decision on our side, we paid € 10 (each) for train tickets (round trip) and arrived there in about an hour, travelling in very good conditions (air conditioning and punctuality). And they took about 3 hours due to the infernal traffic (it seems that many are leaving Palermo during the weekend heading to such towns/villages) and also not able to keep the air conditioning open non-stop (it was gas-consuming).
We've also lost some time looking for a place on the beach, it was terribly crowded, then we all got together as the two of them arrived in Cefalu, had a bath, some sun and later we had lunch (pasta with seafood, delicious!). The Mediterranean Sea, I must than is lovelier than our Black Sea, the water is obviously cleaner, clearer (you even see your toes) and warmer, but much-much more saltier! I have not ventured any second to open my eyes under water, because it was burning pretty much only when I got some water in my eyes. But I won't be too picky, I'd like to swim every day in such a great sea ...
I haven't mentioned before, but in Sicily (at least) there is a very weird "street" culture of "street", I'm telling you: women are scanned from head to toe by men with absolutely any occasion! And when I say men I mean male at any age and any kind of social category ... Every day I heared at least one "Bella" and many whistles. If I remember well, in Romania it is not happening in every neighbourhood and the elderly are more decent (not every pensioner calls you names on the street). And who knows what other things they've said and I did not understand... Not to say that anyway you are scanned by old women and children (needless to say, by everyone) when they see you're a foreigner or they hear you speaking English! They just stare at you, and although there are some tactics you can apply in England when this happens to you (an ugly stare back and a possible naughty "What?"), this does not work at all in Italy. Well, I could look (and I certainly do) Italian (it has happened with some occasions that people spoke directly to me in Italian, for example in the toilet restaurants), but I think the British people accompanying me gave me away:)
I talked about this thing because in Cefalu, when I went with a colleague to get some water, two guys (one of which did not seem under any circumstances heterosexual) took photos of us when we passed by them, and then of our bums when we were in front of them! And the flash was accompanied by unexpected exclamations ... Well, it's flattering to hear compliments from time to time, but not ALWAYS and not from ANYONE. I could not be able to live and be regarded like this, as a woman, only in terms of physical appearance. Luckily I always had sunglasses on the streets, which are a bit loose and they slip of my nose, so I must lift them up, by using the middle finger :)
Back in Palermo, I took a shower, and then we went to look for a place to see the World Cup final and I must say it was not easy, because there wasn't great interest for this game in the city, we've barely managed to find a terrace with a television (and this after I asked, in Spanish, a watermelon seller, who offered us his place next stall, in front of TV with a screen no bigger than my laptop). I supported Spain, in case anyone wondered, this is how I "planned" from the beginning (I supported England, Germany and Spain) ... but I would've been more 'prepared' if Germany had made it to the final, because I've got an "I love Berlin" T-shirt and a wreath like the Hawaiian ones, but in the colours of the German flag, which I bought it in Berlin. But it was not meant to be ... maybe next time!
On the fifth day, on Monday, we had planned a visit to the Courthouse and met with some prosecutors, magistrates & so I, at least, I dressed nice. We attended a lawsuit against a type for car smuggler, if I remember well, and just the next day they were suppose to arrest a group of 17 people part of an international network of drug trafficking. At first we've met with prosecutor who has worked with famous Falcone (we even been in his office where he worked for a while), then the magistrate Geri Ferrara and talked about a very serious problem in Palermo and Naples - the garbage crisis - in which the mob is obviously involved. Indeed, Palermo and Sicily in general, are suffocated by garbage, and some streets smell terrible, especially in these hot summer days.
The Palace of Justice in Palermo is flaked, in the front side, by a bullet-proof fence, 2 meters high. I don't think this is common practice anywhere else, but it's understood in these circumstances...
On the same day, in the afternoon, we went to a meeting with another organization working on the anti-Mafia front, Libera Terra, which basically uses the land confiscated from mafia families and produces wine, olive oil, pasta, etc., somehow in a cooperative system. They even have a shop on the premises, from where I bought a canvas bag (which I use now almost exclusively) and spicy chocolate:) I wanted to take wine, but I wouldn't have liked to drink it alone and it was too complicated to take with me to England and then send it to Romania. Their work is honourable, but we were not too happy with the presentation we were provided with, the answers and the manner in which they addresses certain issues. Initially, some of my colleagues, including Mihai, were supposed to do practice there through the Leonardo programme, but the association changed its mind and it seems it's better this way ...
I have pictures from this meeting (again the camera batteries got empty), but between drops I managed to visit the Cathedral of Palermo that day ...
Tuesday, the sixth day, was extremely long. We left the hostel pretty early in the morning (in fact every day we woke up very early) heading to Corleone, where we visited the International Centre of Documentation about the Mafia and Antimafia. And who else but me, could forget the camera in the hostel room right on such a visit? Well, luckily there were some smart people who invented the "smart phones (and I was even clever and I bought one with a good camera). However, there wasn't a big deal, everything is based more on pictures (took by Letizia Battaglia, a famous Italian photographer specialized on mafia photography) and the explanations received from the guide (which for us wasn't much of a novelty). Unfortunately, we didn't spend more time in Corleone, mainly because, as all our visits in Sicily, we were constantly on the run. I would have liked, for example, to see more homes that belonged to mafia and simply walk through the city, because frankly, you cannot realize the dimension of the phenomenon and you cannot realize what it means to live in a land controlled by the mob until you get there.
Finally, at least I've managed to get some souvenirs before we go to visit a wine cellar which was built on a land confiscated from the mafia, and then we headed to "Portella della Ginestra, at the cooperative Placido Rizzotto, where we had lunch, tasting products obtained exclusively from the Libera Terra circuit (pasta, wine, bread, ice cream, etc.).. The place itself belonged also to a family of mobsters and this does not surprise me, because the location is excellent ( somewhat hidden from the public eye), coming from an adjacent road in a quiet wilderness area. Again, we were on the run (we literary just had finished lunch and had to get up and going), which annoyed me enormously, for several reasons: you cannot just jump directly in the car after you ate on a hellish heat and drive with 70km/hour on serpentines (Gabriele, our guide, is driving very fast and there are very winding roads in Sicily, even though there was no need to build them so, but were designed because of the Mafia businesses) and then throughout our stay, we were not communicated at all in advance exactly what the plan was for each day (admittedly, we were given a program, but in Italian, and without too many hours written down), so we always had to face the situation that " we gotta go in five minutes." But I wrote about it in the feedback that we've been asked to give there and I will write again when we'll have to do a report for the faculty.
But the nice part of the day was only yet to come: we then went to a small town called Partinico, where we visited the headquarters of a local anti-mafia television, Telejato which directly names & shames the actions Cosa Nostra. Initially we didn't know what it was due to happen (however everything was quite spontaneously), so we found ourselves in a 2-rooms apartment (and bathroom, very important work for television, you'll see) where some young people around our age basically keep alive the television, under the direction of Pino Maniac, a funny little man and very lean (probably because of the three packs of cigarettes smoked per day), about 50-old years. We got there when they were broadcasting live (and this happens only 2 hours each day), we've chatted a bit with Pino, having as translator one of the girls working there (who was at one time ashamed to translate some words like "va fan culo" or "cazzo", but I've got them anyway).
This little man is a character who makes fun of many negative things which happened due to his activity, even joking that when they are afraid of what might happen they go to the bathroom (you know now what's the deal with the bathroom). Pino then thought it would be a good idea to record us reading some news in Italian. Cause just before that we had learned that he was threatened and even beaten (at which point he wanted to quit, but the younger daughter, herself part of the team, prompted him to go further), the television car was burned and they were even shot at, we accepted, in jest, only if the recording will be broadcast after our departure from Sicily :) But I took things seriously, and I was the first that took over the news desk (because Pino later admitted he had a weakness for me, probably because I seem a bit similar to then and maybe because I genuinely looked interested in what he was saying, as I understood his Italian) and I presented something about a car being blew up. A generic mega-fun followed, and because the rest did not understand Italian, Pino could not help himself of making fun of them - he named, Rob, one of our colleagues, 'Robin Hood from England', he asked another colleague if she likes marijuana, and she said yes, after getting the translation from Rino. The rest is history! Unfortunately, the recording was broadcast the next day, when we had no access to television and I can't manage to download it, but I'm sure somehow we'll manage to get the recording.
When we left the building we looked to the left and right, as we knew that the town is full of mobsters and did not want to be seen leaving the premises (because everybody knows the TV station there). We had a drink with Pino, and then we had 10 minutes available to take a look at the stores (in such a short time I could not find anything interesting), because then we had to return to Palermo and to end that incredibly long day.
On the seventh day, Thursday, one day anticipated somehow quieter, we got up early again to get to "Riserva dello Zingaro" ("Reserve of the Gypsies"), a beach located about an hour and a half of Palermo - in fact a natural reserve, as the name suggests. The location is superb, although some effort has to be made to get there, because you leave the car in a parking lot and then (after paying a ticket), walk about 20 minutes on a coast to find an isolated beach (but not empty), without a trace of sand, just pebbles. The water was very clear again, and some 50 meters from the shore there were some massive rock on which you could actually stand on. Although I am all but a great swimmer, I managed, with the girls' help, to swim into a cave where the water was cold and dark (do not know if it was due to the lack of light or because it was deep), so we went back on the big stone which we called "Rocky England" and started to do passport control to whomever had came there. I was self-delegated Foreign Minister because I'm a foreigner myself.
We did not realize when we time passed while we were wallowing in water, the fact is that we did not have much time to get dry on the beach because we heard, AGAIN, "in 10 minutes we have to go." But we negotiated and managed to stay longer, but not too much because we got hungry and the area is actually empty. The only place where you can buy something to eat and drink (without any great array of choice, though) was in the parking lot, located 20 minutes away. After that time we had "expired", I went in a small village, where we finally ate something, and then we returned Palermo.
Back in town, I had to choose between a stay at the hostel or a quickly preparation followed by a walk in the city and a short shopping session (because otherwise, frankly, I had no time to buy anything from Palermo, hardly any souvenirs). I chose, obviously the second option! And so I bought a white dress, from an Indian shop (you have no idea how many Indians you may find in Italy). I also wanted a shirt "I love Sicily", for my collection, but there was no way to find one, in so short a time.
That night there was Saint Rosalia Feast (the patron saint of Palermo), so we returned to the hostel, we had dinner and we all got drunk with palinca (I took a bottle with me, obviously) and then we went into town to see the festivities. The people pipe broke with in Palermo that night (as we say in Romanian)! Being a very religious country, everyone was in the street to attend the ceremony, which starts somewhere in the Cathedral and it terminates somewhere on the beach, with a fireworks display. We've had central "seat" for the pageant, where there was a fanfare and then we saw the crowd again close to the beach. We saw some fireworks that were beyond any admissible limits of decibels, but at some point we got bored and went to the hostel (and the firework was not even not finished by then, it ended only after about half an hour). Although we were pretty tired, we stopped for a non-alcoholic drink, because it was incredibly hot (but the palinca no longer had any effect on me, though).
As the next day, the eighth, was the last one, we theoretically ought to do our luggage, but I didn't not worry about it that night, because surprisingly it was the only day that we able to sleep more . We needed to vacate the room until 11:00 so I had gladly sleept till 9:00, then went down to have breakfast and my luggage did not require more than 40 minutes to be done (it's always easier at return, even though I always put my clothes in the wardrobe of the room I'm accommodated in).
Then we went to the airport of Trapani, but not before we stopped under the pretext of eating in a town whose name I didn't bother to remember. I did not understand why this stopover, if again we've been on the run. Really, nothing pisses me off greatly than having to eat on the run, and then jump straight into the car. And I didn't order any sophisticated food but a sandwich and a can of lemonade, which I had to finish in the car! It would've been better go directly to the airport and eat something there, although there wasn't much of a choice there, but at least we have nourished in silence.
Top of the cake: A concrete mixer just entered the airport building! And went about 10 to 15 meters ... I thought this sort of thing happens only in Romania, in a place called "Caracal"... But well, it's a small world!
Sicilians hardly care about their airport security: I passed through the security check without my pants belt on (and remember what happened in London because of some metal buttons on my jeans), and another colleague (which, figure it out! , is writing her dissertation on the airport security), then beeped at the screening, but no one bothered to check her after that. The flight was okay, but the landing was the worse in my life, but I made sure the pilot found out, because I repeated this 2 times when I descended the stairs of the front door of the aircraft. And if in Sicily I was melting because of the heat, wearing shorts and a thin blouse, I froze instantly in England and I had no time to get my jeans on because we tried (and succeeded) to take an earlier bus to Coventry, not have to wait in the airport about 3 hours. In Coventry it was raining when we arrived but lucky a colleague took me home, so I didn't need to spend any money on taxi nor to wait for the bus. Home I talked with Nicoleta, I ate a soup made by her and then I went to my room to leave my bag. Obviously after I stretched "a little" in bed, it took me just a few seconds to fall asleep, dressed as I was. I woke up at 3:00, I changed and removed my make up and I was shoved back into bed.
I'll be back soon with some (various) conclusions of your trip, because now I want to (temporarily) end the Sicilian saga (because anyway it took me ages to write and translate it).
Ciao!
